When the reader wrote into HRM expaining the situation, the editor at the time gave more excuses than a "pregnant nun" (excuse my language), and if you look very closely at much of the staff that exists today at these mags, allthough they have built cars & are no doubt enthusiets, their admiited backgrounds and ethics are at best questionable. This really started about the late 70's and the 1st time that I had heard of this was by HRM on a Mustang build- A reader tried to duplicate part by part what was publicized in HRM, and it could not be done, the Machine Shop was Kelly's block welding service in West LA and Ed Reath Automotive- both very well known & respected shops. But many of us don't drive our cars that much anyway. Now I suppose this could decrease the life of the engine. This is accomplished by virtually giving you a longer rod. I the few instances when I personally chased down item by item, builds that they had done, part numbers (they supplied) did not even exist.not that it was either obsolete or was not yet ready for production.but just simply did not exist! and the claimed parts mfg, advised they had no knowledge or even communication with the editors or writers. According to that article, flipping the pistons is good for 15-30hp with the trade off being increased noise when cold. Once you have a sense for how you want to do it then post over there and explain what you are planning and you'll get lots of great advice.IMHO, in the few+ decades I have been on this earth, I have more than once read articles by these "magazine guru's" that well, what it all comes down to is fraudulent articles. Id suggest starting over on in the 5.0/5.8 Tech Forum. If I were you I'd go and reasearch and ask this question were you are apt to find a much larger population of 5.0 people. They then moved this peice from piston to piston and bolted it in place using the head bolt holes this peice lined up with. One of the best articles I had read a couple of years ago talked about making a custom cutting tool and then cutting a section out of an old cast iron head just wide enough to cover the valves - something like 4" wide. The key is very careful masking and cleanup. It is not recommended for obvious reasons but absolutely has and can be done. MG-90 1994-95 Mustang 5.0 Telorvek Fuel Injection Wiring Harness Watch on The Detail Zone Watch on Wiring Kit for Mass-Air Ford 5.0 94-95 SN95 Mustangs (Telorvek) Brand: Ron Francis Product Code: MG-90 Availability: 1 999.95 969. I've seen many people and a few articles that discuss notching the pistons with the engine in the car. HTH a little and let me know if you want to risk cutting the pistons with a die grinder and I'll tell you what to watch out for and how I did it. It seems like it always takes me at least two tries to get the clay to come off right so I can get a good measurement, but make sure you are satisfied with your measurements so you can sleep at night. 030" LESS clearance than you actually have! Use the stock valve springs and clay to check your clearance. I also had an (small) epiphany as I was checking and rechecking clearances after cutting the pistons: The weak spring method leaves about. This'll be my first attempt on a Ford motor, however. Now before the 'experts' thrash me for this, I've performed this surgery before on two Chevy motors with no issues - no failures, cracks or add'l carbon buildup in valve reliefs. I also was a little worried about screwing up the valve guides on my brand new heads by augering the pilot around in there. I decided I didn't want to spend $300 for one pilot and two cutters - so I cut my own reliefs with a die grinder and a couple of different burs. Isky would not get back to me on the rental option that is supposed to be available. I could only find places to buy the Isky cutting tools and pilot (Summit is one but you can get them cheaper). Cobrastang, did you use the clay method and valve train components you plan to use on the finished motor - or did you use lightweight checking springs and feeler gauges?
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